Drifting Glossary

Chicane
A quick left - right / right - left "S-turn" usually placed onto straightaways in order to slow drivers down before they reach slower corners.

Choku-Dori (aka Chaku-Dari)
A commonly misused term in the United States. Oftentimes used to describe a side to side, swaying drift typically used on straightaways (aka Manji), but is really a long sliding drift through a braking zone.

Countersteer
Corrective steering used to balance and maintain an oversteered condition. (turning the steering wheel in the opposite direction of the turn once the vehicle starts to oversteer)

D1
Refers to the D1 Grand Prix - All Japan Professional drifting compettition. Held in various locations across Japan (and now the USA, Europe, and Asia) and judged by Keiichi Tsuchiya, the D1 has become the standard by which all drifters are judged. The D1 holds a multiple round point competition in which drivers compete for both individual event wins and overall season points. Competitions typically consist of a qualifying day for competitors to determine the top 32 drivers. The top 32 enter competition and perform a solo pass for judgment and further elimination. The next round consists of the top 16 drivers who (from this point in the competition on) are competing in head-to-head "Tsuiso" format. The drivers are eliminated round by round until one driver emerges as champion.

Donut
Allowing the rear wheels of a vehicle to burn rubber, causing the car to rotate around the front tires, again and again.

Drift
To cause a vehicle to exceed its tires' limits of adhesion, exhibiting a lateral slip, resulting in an oversteered condition.

Drift King
Japanese racer Keiichi Tsuchiya is a living legend in the world of drifting. Although many may claim to be good, there is only one true Drift King.

Drift Run
Refers to any vehicle proceeding through the designated Drift Course / Turn.

E-Braking (hand braking / side braking)
Using a vehicle’s emergency brake to induce a drift. (emergency brakes lock up only the rear wheels of a vehicle, making them perfect tools for drifting)

Exhibition Drift
The purpose of drifting at the Drift Session is to cause maximum oversteer in a vehicle while maintaining speed. Vehicles are not judged based on time trials or speed, but rather on the completion of clean and exaggerated drifts which maintain a reasonable rate of speed. Exhibition Drifting also includes techniques as one hand drifting, trying to open the door while drifting.

GTS
Grand Touring Sport, or something like that. A common addition to many sport type car names. Commonly referring to the 1984-1987 Toyota Corolla GTS.
see "Hachiroku"

Guardrails
The thing that separates the men from the boys according to Signal Auto's Fumiaki Komatsu. Hawaii Motorsports Center's got lots of them.

Hachiroku
Literally translated eight – six, but commonly used as the name for the AE86, 1984-1987 Toyota Corolla GTS. Runs on the DOHC 4-AGE motor, rear wheel drive w/ lsd.

Heel-Toe Shifting
A drifting technique where the clutch is pressed with the left foot while the right foot presses the brake with the toes and the heel slides over to the accelerator to rev the engine up before downshifting the vehicle. (allows smooth downshifting, without jolting the vehicle)

HIRS
Hawaii International Racing School. Offering classes to locals and tourists on professional race driving skills. Drivers get in-depth classroom instruction and driving time in spec race cars. Classes also include car control clinics where participants can use their own vehicles.

Limited Slip Differential (LSD)
Axle gearing that allows power to be transferred to the wheel with the most traction. Similar to posi traction. (allows both power wheels to “lock up” and spin at the same time)

Long Course
The full-length road course at Hawaii Raceway Park. Instead of turning from the Quarter Mile Straightaway at Short Course Turn 1, drivers proceed down the remaining straightaway to Long Course Turn 1 before heading back towards the Chicane.

Off-Camber
The first set of turns on the Hawaii Motorsports Center Road Course. "Off-Camber" describes the turns because the road slants away from the inside of the turn.

Oversteer
Causing a vehicle to over rotate while cornering. (causing a vehicle to be on the verge of spinning out; good for drifting and really fun)

Powerslide
An American racing term for drifting that commonly refers to utilizing excessive horsepower to cause a loss of traction resulting in a drift.

Road Course
A racing course made up of actual roadways consisting of various straightaways, corners, and bends. For example: a large parking lot with cones placed on it to designate a course would not a a "road course" since it does not consist of an actual roadway; neither would an oval-track be considered a road course since there is little / no variance of corners and straightaways in the course used.

Short Course
Used to refer to the course used at Drift Session events and most major competitions at Hawaii Motorsports Center. This typically begins at the Skid Pad, through the Staging Lanes, into the Sweeper, down the Quarter Mile Straightaway, through Short Course Turn 1, up the Back Straight, through the Chicane, and finally through the Off Camber. The entire Short Course can be connected by skilled drivers and is also run in reverse direction.

Silvia
Japanese version of the Nissan 240SX. Comes in S13, S14, or S15 variations. Typically coveted for its low cost, yet very sporty look and relatively powerful turbocharged, 4-cylinder engine the SR20-DET. A frequently used vehicle in the sport of drifting in Japan and abroad.

Staging Lanes
The set of lanes between the Off-Camber and the Sweeper at Hawaii Motorsports Center. The lanes are marked with paint and numbers.
Also used to refer to the line or cars leading to either the Road Course or U-Turn.

Sweeper
The long "sweeping" turn that leads from the staging lanes, past the tower, and out onto the quarter mile straightaway. One of the most challenging sections of Hawaii Motorsports Center, to master the sweeper is to induce drift after the exit of the Off Camber, maintain a constant radius drift through the entire sweeper and end on the straightaway at high speed. The guardrails on both sides of the sweeper and narrow roadway make this corner particularly dangerous.

Understeer
A loss of traction in a vehicle’s front tires, caused by excessive speed in relation to a cornering angle, causing the vehicle to slide outwards during a turn. (taking a turn too fast and not being able to hang it, your car starts to slide outward; not good and not fun)

U-Turn
The hairpin turn at the end of the quarter mile straightaway at Hawaii Motorsports Center (aka Turn 1).

By http://www.driftsession.com/

Drifting Rules

Driver Rules

1. All drivers must register their vehicles prior to drifting. At Vehicle Sign In you'll be charged according to the event and given instructions on where to pit your vehicle.


2. All first time drifters must notify the attendant at vehicle sign in to receive a track orientation.



3. All drivers must be registered to drive. Once registered, drivers may share vehicles amongst other registered drivers, but may not allow non-registered persons to drive.


4. Drivers must be wearing long pants, covered shoes, a shirt that covers the shoulders (no tank tops), and a racing helmet. Racing suits are strongly encouraged. Helmets must remain on and strapped as long as your vehicle in on the track.


Passengers

1. Only one passenger, other than the driver, is allowed (per vehicle) while drifting.


2. Passengers must board or exit their host’s vehicle prior to entering the track itself.


3. Passengers must sit in the front seat of the vehicle and wear proper safety restraints at all times.



4. Drivers are responsible for making sure that each passenger follows appropriate rules and regulations.


5. Drivers must be wearing long pants, covered shoes, a shirt that covers the shoulders (no tank tops), and a racing helmet. Racing suits are strongly encouraged. Helmets must remain on and strapped as long as a vehicle in on the track.


6. All body parts must remain within the vehicle compartment while on track.


Spectators

1. All drivers and spectators must park their vehicles in the designated parking area.


2. All drivers and spectators must remain behind the safety barriers at all times. On the Road Course, no spectator may get closer than 100 feet from the roadway, excluding the Main Gate and Pit Area. Safety barriers are not always set up so use your judgment when choosing an area to watch the events.


3. Spectators at Long Course Turn 1 may not go past the starting line for the course. All spectators must also remain on the lower straightaway at all times.


General Track Safety

1. Road Speed is 10 mph in all areas of the track, unless you are an active driver on the track.


2. With the exception of the center road and parking area, all drivers must follow a counter clockwise direction on the track (unless the track is reversed for the day).


3. Vehicles must not leave the roadway during a drift run.


4. If your vehicle leaves the road (during a drift run) reduce speed immediately and return to the road at low speed, so you do not kick up dirt and rocks (onto the road or into your car's paint).


5. All drivers and passengers must be wearing safety restraints while proceeding on a drift run.


6. Drivers must wait in a single file line (in their vehicles) in the staging lanes prior to entering a course.


8. No trucks, vans, or SUVs are allowed to drift without approval. Any soft-top convertables must have adequate rollover protection. The Drift Session reserves the right to refuse track use to any vehicle deemed unsafe for participation.


9. All passengers must be at least 14 years old.

By http://www.driftsession.com/

Getting Started & Drifting Techniques

How do I get started in Drifting?
There is no simple way to learn drifting. Drifting is a form of driving that incorporates many aspects of driving such as Autocross, Rally, Road racing and Stock car racing.

Typically a good drifter will have a solid background various types of motor sports.
The concept behind drifting is to understand what the vehicle is doing and making it do exactly what you intended to do. Drift UK hold events in all areas of the UK.
Do not attend any other forms of driving events to learn how to drift such as Autocross and Road racing events. You may potentially upset the organizer and the property manager by doing something you were not permitted to do. It is not smart to try and drift in roads or at unsupervised areas like car parks or empty roads.


When will I be ready for competition?
At the moment there are some events that give tuition beforehand, at Drift UK events this is the case but only you know when and if you are ready. However, Drift UK is working with a famous racing school and is training at this moment an instructor for the future.
Every driver should know that there are risks involved with any motor sport competition.
At one point or another, there is a possibility of an accident, but this is part of competition.

There are two main drifting techniques.
The first is called the 'clutch kick technique' and is the preferred method for rear-wheel drivers. With the clutching technique, you shift the car into second gear as you approach the turns. You then rev the engine to between 4,000 and 7,000 rpm, depending on the car. With the engine revved, you turn the car hard into the turn and 'pop' the clutch, causing the rear tyres to spin and lose traction.

To keep the car in the drifting motion until the next turn, you must keep your foot on the accelerator and make adjustments with the throttle and steering wheel to prevent spin out. If you've managed to keep the car in control, you can then cut the wheel in the other direction and attempt to slide around the next turn in one smooth motion.
However, if you went into the turn too slowly, the car may begin to regain traction and you'll have to re-apply the clutch kick technique.

Because front-wheel driven cars cannot produce tyre spin and traction loss at the rear wheels, they require a second, alternative method of drifting: the hand-brake technique.
While the clutching technique uses momentum and rear-wheel torque to power the car through a set of drifts, the hand brake technique relies solely on momentum. Using this style of drifting, you would simply pull the hand brake as you approach the set of turns to cause a sudden traction loss. Since there's no driving torque involved, it is much harder to maintain the traction loss through multiple turns using the hand-brake.

Instructors at our events will talk you through each technique at the practice event.

By http://www.driftuk.co.uk

Mazda RX-7 92-02 Review

Mazda RX-7 (FD3S) 92-02 Review

Most people know two things about Mazda's 3rd generation RX-7 - 1) They are one of Japan's most beautiful cars 2) They've got funny engines that are prone to going bang. Point two is often over hyped and having previously owned one, am reasonably qualified to comment.

For me the shape of the RX-7 is superb - the double bubble roof and doors are two of my favourite features with the single side windows giving it that jet fighter look. I often marvelled at the rear panels - seemingly one smoothed piece of metal from the front of the roof all the way around the rear back and sides.


Sold officially in the UK from 1992 - 1995, there are a number of differences to the Japanese import RX-7s, available 1992-2002, rocking up on our shores. Built to compete with the likes of Porsche's 968, the 3rd generation RX-7 (FD3S) gained a much sleeker body than the previous RX-7 (FC3S). Weight was a key issue in the development of the car and Mazda's compact rotary (Wankel) engine helped deliver the goods. The 13B-REW two rotor engine was coupled with a sequential twin turbo system delivering phenomenal performance in a compact package to place the engine behind the front suspension. Developing 237bhp in UK spec, Japanese imports have anywhere between 255bhp and 280bhp - if standard which is a rare thing.

Opening the door via the concealed door handle the door swings open - a keen eye will spot the plastic hinge used for weight saving - and you're greeted with a low slung seat and a dash that wraps around the driver. A large tachometer dominates the centre of the dial arrangement with the speedo to the right and oil pressure, water temperature and petrol on the right. The hand brake and gearstick are mounted high up on the transmission tunnel helping that feeling of being low down with everything to hand.


There are many different variants. As mentioned there's the UK / Japanese choice with the UK spec providing a sun roof, leather, 2 seats only and less power than the imports. There is a whole host of Japanese models - type x, type s, touring x, touring s, type r1, type r2, type rz, type rs, type rb, type rb Bathurst, type rb Bathurst x, type rsr, type r, rb-s, spirit r-a, spirit r-b, spirit r-c. Specification variations include leather, carbon seats, 2+2 seat layout, twin oil coolers and much more besides. In 1996 the ECU was changed from an 8 bit to 16 bit model, the rear gained much more attractive round rear lights increased to 265 bhp. In late 98/99 RX-7 received a mild face lift with a revised front end and rear spoiler. The turbo was also upgraded and boost pressure increased to increase the bhp on type r type rs type rz to 280 bhp. The final incarnation the RX-7 took was the run out model - the sought after Spirit R of which 1500 were produced.

Fire up an RX-7 with a non-standard exhaust and you'll know about it. Once up to temperature the fun begins - foot down and the needle pulls around the tacho at an alarming rate. At 4500rpm the second turbo kicks in FULL BOOST and away you go until the beeper sounds to tell you to change up. The gearing makes for fabulous pub talk - 70mph in second unless you've a shorter final drive. That may sound a little longer than most cars but you're rarely out of the power with the first turbo keeping things on the boil lower down the rev range. I love the fact the RX-7 is so visceral - it pops, it bangs dumping bags of fuel into it's hot exhaust system as you lift off to change gear.


Day to day the RX-7 was great to live with - always an event - but you do have to be aware of a few things. They are thirsty - i got around 17mpg from mine with heavily tuned examples dropping further. If you don't give them regular exercise the engines can suffer from carbon build up - it's no great chore going for a good drive every now and then! Flooding - the engines can flood if you start it cold and turn it off soon afterwards. Servicing - the engine uses a bit of oil in the mix to lubricate the rotor tips so this will need topping up as well as 3,000 mile changes. Even with all this it's still well worth it, it's a high performance machine and needs a little care, attention and a bit of cash!

High petrol costs, frequent servicing and possible rebuilds have all helped push prices down with prices starting from £3,000 but certainly keep your eyes open to potential big bills. With a range of tuned vehicles also available it can also be cost effective to buy one with the modifications already made - a single turbo conversion can quickly end up at nearly £5,000.

So this engine then... The Wankel rotary engine used in the RX-7 benefits from being small in size but achieving a high output from it's two 654cc rotors. The rotary engine, while intimidating to the uninitiated, is in fact considerably simpler that a piston engine - valving is achieved by ports cut into the walls of the rotor housing, the rotor is geared directly to the output shaft, there is no need for connecting rods, a conventional crankshaft and so on. This makes the rotary engine very light.

The rotor tips wear and are the most common reason for engine failure. The tips last around 60,000 miles in standard tune but can last longer, or indeed shorter depending on the life they've led. These days RX-7 engines are rebuilt using the more modern RX-8 rotor tips, as well as a range of high performance rotor tips being available if you've the wallet. Rebuilds of the 13B engine start at around £2500 - undoubtedly a large sum of money but compare this with the cost of rebuilding say a Skyline's RB26DETT engine - both have similar performance. Bills can grow while the engine is open - you may begin to think "I'll have it ported" which leads on to aftermarket ECUs.

As mentioned there are no valves - simply a port. To increase the duration much as you would with after market cams to gain power, the port just needs to be enlarged. Of course this is an art with engine builders having their own templates and variations from street porting, extended porting, bridge porting and peripheral porting. A bonus not having to pay out for a set of cams every time, and if you've the balls or the skill a chance to get something for nothing.

Rebuilds are carried out by a handful of specialists such as RX Motors but a growing number of UK RX-7 owners are biting the bullet and rebuilding their engines themselves.

It's well worth joining a club such as the Mazda Rotary Club if you're thinking of purchasing one of these awesome cars. I'd certainly have another given the opportunity.

By http://www.japmobiles.com

Nissan R34 Skyline

The Skyline GTR V-Spec. The definitive Gran Tourismo car. The Skyline in standard form is nothing special, approximated to a Vauxhall Omega in it's homeland but a beefy body kit, large wheels and awesome power from the RB26 DETT power plant help this to become a supercar.

Although the R34 Skyline weighs in at 1540kg, it doesn't hang around. The R34 provides a good compromise between the raw R32 and the more refined R33 Skyline.


The addition of lightened parts, a 6 speed gear box, more aggressive looks, carbon rear diffuser and adjustable rear wing. Eighteen inch anthracite wheels shod in 245/40w 18 tyres behind which sit Brembo 4 pot callipers ready to bite onto huge discs. The 2.6 litre twin turbo engine produces '280bhp' @ 6800rpm and 40kgm of torque @ 4400rpm hauls the Skyline GTR to 62mph in 5.2 seconds and onto a limited 155mph. The 280bhp is '280bhp' because it is really more like 300-320bhp. The Japanese self imposed a 280bhp limit on all cars, although the actual production figure is often more.
Keeping the R34 Skyline GTR in check through the bends is a rear wheel steering system which acts to reduce yaw and under/oversteer. An active LSD also aims to improve conering with a centre diff moving the power between the rear wheels and front wheels through the ATTESA system. The R34 does break away quickly though thanks to the low tyre profile means you have to be catch it but with 2.5 turns lock to lock this is possible.

The Japanese have never been shy with technology and this is no exception. Sat in the Connolly leather seats (on one of 90 official UK cars) with massive supports there is a screen in the centre of the dash board displaying air/fuel ratios and the exhaust gas temperature as well as a nice diagram showing the g forces being experienced. The Skyline GTR, once again, improves itself using superb electronics to aid yet not destroy the drivability of the car.

The UK price of a new UK car was £54'000 with imports more readily available for less.

By : http://www.japmobiles.com

Drift Techniques

With drifting being based around oversteer pretty much makes this exclusive to RWD, but FWD'ers can get driftin with liberal usage of the handbrake or trays or crates under the rear wheels;) The best drifters will not just oversteer the car into corners - all four wheels should be drifting. Keiichi Tsuchiya aka Dorikin (Drift King) presents on Japan's Best Motoring videos and is considered a legend.

Given the quality of hardcore drift websites out there, here is just an outline on the drift techniques used.


Braking Drift
By trail braking into a corner weight is over the front wheels inducing loss of grip at the rear. This is then balanced through low to medium speed turns with the accelertor and steering.

Choku-Dori (a.k.a Swaying Drift)
This is a slow side-to-side feint like drift where the rear end sways back and forth down a strait.

Clutch Kick
Dipping the clutch pedal and releasing it suddenly (hence the kick) on approach to a corner or used mid drift provides a sudden burst of power losing rear traction.

Dirt Drop Drift
Dropping the rear tyres off the track into the dirt to maintain the drift and carry speed into the next turn.

E-Brake/Handbrake Drift
Pulling the handbrake to lock the rear wheels and lose traction before balancing the drift with steering and the accelerator. Using the hand brake is one of the basic methods to get used to low speed sideways car control.

Feint Drift
Flicking the car to the outside of the corner before turning into the corner carries the weight of the car to the outside of the turn allowing the drift to begin. This is known as a Scandinavian Flick in rally circles where it is widely used.

Heel Toe Shifting
Drifting is about balance and smoothness. Making your gear shifts as smooth as possible means you can concentrate on the correct steering and braking rather than a dodgy gear shift upsetting the balance.

Jump Drift
The jump drift is a technique used in drift races - bouncing the inside wheel over the kerbing to shift the weight over to the opposite side, inducing oversteer.

Kansei Drift
The foot is lifted off the throttle when entering a high speed corner resulting in a weight shift to the front to induce a mild oversteer which is then balanced with the steering and accelerator.

Long Slide Drift
Carried out at high speed, pulling the handbrake allows a high drift angle to be accomplished on the straight to carry though the turn.

Power Over
With enough power, using full throttle (on boost where applicable) on entry to a corner oversteer will be produced. This is again a basic technique, although not mastered many will have experienced.

Shift Lock Drift
Allowing the revs to fall on a downshift before releasing the clutch slows the drivetrain down and inducing oversteer.

Defensive Driving

Step Drift : Defensive Driving - Four Secrets Of Staying Safe

Okay, you've heard about the benefits of defensive driving and you know that it involves being aware of the potential hazards that other road users can create.

Great! But what exactly does that involve? What should you be doing? What should you be looking out for?

So with that in mind, here are some of the best defensive driving tips that will help to protect you from the dangers that exist on our roads.


1) One Thousand And One Ways To Create Space

One of the best ways to create space around your vehicle is to avoid travelling too close to the vehicle in front. Ideally, you should be at least two seconds behind the vehicle in front of you.

As soon as the vehicle in front passes a fixed point, such as a signpost or a tree etc, count how long it takes for you to pass the same object. Start counting "one thousand and one, one thousand and two" etc. If you're less than two seconds behind you're too close and need to back off slightly. In bad weather such as ice, snow, fog or heavy rain, this should become the three, four or even five second rule depending upon the severity of the conditions.

Eventually, you'll be able to judge how far behind you should be according to your speed and the road conditions.

This will allow you to pull up in plenty of time if the vehicle in front has to stop suddenly. And while we're on the subject of stopping distances, the distance that it takes your vehicle to stop depends on four factors. A higher speed, heavier vehicle, weaker brakes and poor road surface will all increase the distance that it takes you to stop. So it's important to know the capabilities of your vehicle and learn to drive within them.

And one final word about stopping distances. If your car is equipped with an ABS braking system, it will prevent your brakes from locking up and allow you more control, but it won't bring your car to a stop any quicker.

2) The What If Game

This game is one of the best ways to hone your skills of observation and anticipation. The rules are simple; as you drive around, pay extra attention to everything around your vehicle. Look for potential hazards. Read the road in front and make sure you know what is behind and beside you. Then, keep asking yourself "what if?"

What if the car in front stops suddenly? What if I have to take evasive action? Where is my run off area? What if someone pulls out in front of me?

The more you pose these questions and consider your actions, the more prepared you'll be if anything unexpected happens. It will also help you to anticipate what other drivers may do and prepare you to deal with these events.

3) Go With The Flow

When out on the road, make sure that you drive according to the prevailing conditions instead of trying to force other road users to adopt your style of driving.

For example, if the general speed in one lane is 60mph and 70mph in another, don't try to cruise at 65mph. That would involve travelling too close to the cars in front and constantly overtaking or slowing down vehicles in the other lane.

Don't try to force a column of traffic to go faster than they want to, and by the same token, don't try to police the speed adopted by vehicles in a certain lane. Leave that to the proper law enforcement officers.

And when it comes to changing lanes, be decisive, don't obstruct others and signal all your intentions clearly before you start any manoeuvre. Go with the flow and your journey will be safer and much more relaxing.

4) Be Cautious

The roads are not the right place for taking risks. For example, when you approach an intersection, don't assume that everyone will follow the rules. Signal your intentions so that everyone knows where you're going, remain alert and keep your foot over the brake just in case.

Likewise, make sure that you give all vehicles especially larger vehicles such as trucks full respect. Stay well behind them and when you want to overtake, be decisive and move past with the minimum of delay.

And when passing vehicles, make sure that you stay out of their blind spots. As a general rule, if you can't see the driver in their side mirror, they won't be able to see you.

Whatever happens, don't rely upon your cruise control to drift past other vehicles 1 mph faster. That means you'll be in their blind spot and greater danger for a long time.

With better skills of observation, anticipation, some basic common courtesy and a relaxed attitude your journeys will be safer and much more enjoyable.

by Charlie Moore

MAZDA RX8 Reviews

Step Drift : MAZDA RX8 Reviews

Vehicle Make and Model: Mazda RX8
Years in Production: 2004, 2005, 2006
Models - Coupe
The Mazda RX-8 is a car manufactured by Mazda Motor Corporation which first appeared in North America at the North American International Auto Show in 2001. The vehicle features a 250 PS JIS (184 kW, 247 hp) @8500rpm (238 SAE net hp for North America) RENESIS Wankel rotary engine, which won International Engine of the Year and Best New Engine awards in 2003 and holds the "2.5 to 3 liter" size award for 2003 and 2004. The engine redlines at 9000 rpm, and cuts off fuel at 9500 rpm. As of March 31, 2005, 114,444 RX-8 models had been sold worldwide since introduction.


The RX-8 was also Wheels magazine's Car of the Year for 2003 and was on Car and Driver magazine's Ten Best list for 2004 and 2005. It was nominated for the North American Car of the Year award for 2004 as well. In 2006 it won What Car? Magazine's 'Car of the Year - Best Coupe' award for the 3rd year running in the UK.

One major change in design between the RX-8 and the RX-7 is the addition of a pair of rear-hinged ('suicide') half-doors (similar to the 3rd door in the Saturn coupe), which allow easier access to the two back seats. The RX-8 has no center pillars separating the front and rear doors. The front doors are hinged at the front, and aluminum back doors are hinged at the rear. Because of the overlapped design, the rear doors can only be opened when the front doors are open.

Weight distribution in the RX-8 is a balanced 50/50 in the front and rear. Mazda achieved this by pushing the engine back past the front axle, achieving a Front-midships engine layout.


Mazda’s new Renesis rotary engine is smaller and lighter than prior rotaries, primarily due to the lack of a turbocharger and associated parts. New to its design are a side-intake and side-exhaust. The engine produces 210 PS (155 kW) in the automatic transmission form, and 250 PS (184 kW) in the manual transmission form. Mazda does, however, plan on eventually releasing a Mazdaspeed variant of the RX-8 with a different front facia, upgraded handling, and perhaps a supercharger.

Mazda aggressively trimmed mass from the RX-8 concept by using aluminium and plastic for body panels and installing a carbon composite driveshaft. The dimensions of the RX-8 are virtually identical to those of the Porsche 911 Carrera.

According to Mazda, the RX-8's RENESIS engine was originally developed to potentially use either gasoline or hydrogen as fuel. In February 2006, Mazda revealed that it would start leasing a dual-fuel RX-8 to commercial customers in Japan.



BODY KITS AVAILIBLE FOR MAZDA RX8: To purchase any of the Mazda RX8 Body Kits visit our online shopping cart by Clicking Here

Mazda RX8 Razor Body Kit, also called the RM Body Kit
Mazda RX8 Mint Body Kit
Mazda RX8 Veilside Version 1 Body Kit
Mazda RX8 Veilside DG1 Body Kit
Mazda RX8 Infini Flared Body Kit
Mazda RX8 Buddy Club Body Kit
OUR FAVORITE BODY KITS FOR THE MAZDA RX8:

Our overall favorite body kit for the Mazda RX8 is the Infini Flared body kit by Vision Auto Dynamics. This kit is made from a polyurethane material that is both durable and easy to install. The front and rear bumpers are designed to replace the factory originals, but give the RX8 a much deeper and more aggressive look without being to overbearing. The Mazda RX8 Infini flared body kit is a hot seller and usually is in stock so it can ship out in 3-4 days. Bodykitz gives this kit a thumbs up!

For those looking to spend a little less than the $1200 for the Infini Flared kit, we would have to recommend the RX8 Mint body kit from AIT Racing. This kit is value priced at $799 and features AITs trademark FRP (Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic) material. Lightweight and striking looks are the biggest features, next to its modest price tag. AIT kits are almost always instock, preboxed and ready to ship. This kit usually ships out in 24-48 hours, making this an unbeatable product!

Customer Favorites:

Here are some other body kits and ground effects kits that are hot sellers among our customers as well as some that are a hot trend in the import business:

Invader - The Invader is basically a design based on the worlds most elite ground effects manufacturer "veilside". This common platform has become a big hit in the import tuning community, not just for the body kits but for the Invader stly carbon fiber hoods as well.
Tips:

Before you purchase your body kit or during shipping time, it is a good idea to make sure that you have a qualified installer for your body kit. If you are purchasing a fiberglass kit, it is especially important to find one that can specifically deal with the alterations that may be required to fit your kit correctly. Fiberglass kits in general need some finishing work during installation, such as sanding, primering, filling pinholes/gaps, trimming or shaving. Many times, our customers are charged more than they should if they use a shop who is not familiar with altering fiberglass because of the additional time involved.

Also be sure that whoever is recieving the kit inspects the contents of the box before they sign for it. Although most shipments are recieved undamaged, it is possible that your shipment may be. Because we are not in control of the freight company and thier policies, you must inspect the kit before you sign for it and if it is damaged either refuse the kit and note it on the delivery invoice so that we can file a claim for you.


By http://www.edmunds.com

The Legendary AE86

Step Drift : Famous Sports Cars - The Legendary Toyota AE86

Perhaps the most popular 1980s sports car to come out of Japan was the Toyota AE86. Often known as the Hachi-Roku, which means eight-six in Japanese, the sports car became incredibly well liked especially after its appearances in the Japanese manga and anime series called Initial D. The Toyota AE86, which was first introduced in 1983, is also famous for being the last small, rear wheel drive coupe.

The car came in two different body styles, the Levin and the Trueno. They were essentially the same thing, with the only difference coming in the shape of its headlights. More variations between the two models later came in 1986, when Toyota changed the tail lights and hatchback styles as well. The cars produced before this change were commonly called "Zenki", which is Japanese for "early period". Toyota AE86 cars made with the new changes were called "Kouki", which unsurprisingly means "latter period" in Japanese.



The sports car was also very popular at car shows and was used in various racing sports,
particularly circuit racing and rally driving. Even now, after it has been discontinued, the car remains popular in rally circles and club races. The car was particularly adept at cornering, especially when it was going downhill. As a result, this made it a very common car for mountain pass street races in Japan, known as hashiriyas. The sports car was light, quite powerful, easily modifiable and balanced very well. Keiichi Tsuchiya, the legendary racer in Japan known as Dori-Kin, or "drift king", had also used the car. In fact, with the Toyota AE86, Keiichi Tsuchiya popularized the sport of drifting. To this day it is still popular in drifting competitions because of its fantastic cornering and early association with the sport.



The Japanese manga and anime series, Initial D, also sparked a new interest in the car among automobile and drifting fans all over the world. The car remains so well received that it has been featured in the high-selling, realistic videogame racing series Gran Turismo. Because of its recent attention, the resale value of the car has increased.

The car was originally released in North America under the Corolla name, which stood for "crown of a flower" and came out in 3 different versions. It was also fairly popular in North America, as one version known as the GT-S stayed in production until 1991. The AE86 sports car was also released in Australia under the name Sprinter, but unfortunately, it did not sell so well because the stock engine was poor. However, many Australian car enthusiasts switched the engine and it has been stayed popular for rally and track racing due to its good handling.



Even though it has been over twenty years since its release, the legendary car is still highly regarded among car enthusiasts due to its wonderful handling and drifting abilities. It continues to gain fame years later since it has been featured in many different car shows, cartoons, games and television series. Since it was also the last of its kind and was used by the legendary drift king, Keiichi Tsuchiya, it looks like the Toyota AE86 is here to stay and drift for years to come.

By http://www.ezinearticles.com/

Subaru Impreza WRX

Step Drift : Subaru Impreza WRX Type UK Review

The range of Subaru Imprezas has been vast, usually involving two or three random letters thrown on after Impreza such as 22B, P1, STi, WRX, WR1 and the list goes on. So here we have another variant of Subaru's classic rally car for the road - the WRX Type-UK.Yes the Impreza WRX Type-UK is an edition just for us Brits. Mechanically identical to the WRX but offering greater value with a security tracking system, touch screen satellite navigation and a Bluetooth hands-free phone kit.



That's not all though, available with free servicing for the first five years or 50,000 miles and an extended warranty taking that cover up to five years or 50,000 miles too.Available for the same price as the standard WRX, the Type-UK starts from £20,945 with the higher-spec SL version costing £22,445. The new 2.5 litre engine used throughout the WRX range provides more torque lower down in the rev-range making the performance more accessible in everyday driving.

Power is up to 230PS and you can feel the improvement behind the wheel, sixty appearing from rest in 5.9s on the way to a maximum of 143mph with a trade off in fuel consumption - from 30mpg to 27.4mpg. Standard equipment levels are high, including air-conditioning, CD player, driver, passenger and side airbags as well as new HID headlamps with pop-up washers. Plus power steering, air-conditioning, remote central-locking, a hill holder clutch, spoiler kit and 15" alloy wheels, so the WRX certainly doesnt want for standard equipment.



Factor in a Category One remote alarm and immobiliser, sports seats and four-channel anti-lock brakes, and it looks good value. The engineers at Subaru have spent most effort fine-tuning the engine, suspension, bodyshell and steering making the latest generation Impreza a more complete package if not quite so exciting as the original first generation model.The Type-UK deal is for a limited period.Hill Holder - A small rear brake that, after being set by the brake pedal, whilst the clutch is depressed the car will not roll back.

By japmobiles

Nissan Sil80

Step Drift : Nissan Sil80

The SilEighty (pronounced shilla eytee) is a King of drift machines. It started with car accidents, illegal racing and Nissan actually seeing what people were doing. The Nissan Silvia was not realeased over here but is based on the 200sx chassis. The Nissan 180SX is Japans version of the S13 200sx with an SR20DET engine. In Japan, Silvias have three levels of trim (K[ing]'s, Q[ueen]'s, J[ack]'s) K's being the 2.0 Turbo charged SR20DET engines which could making well over 200bhp, Q's being the non-turbo 2.0 liter engines putting out just around 150-170bhp.When Nissan had several FR turbo powered cars such as the Silvia and the 180SX, 180SX drivers bought them for drifting.



However when learning to drift through the touge (Pronounced "Toe-Gay"), accidents do happen resulting in damaged front ends. The front end parts of Silvias were less expensive than the 180SX with pop up lights, and sharing the same platform the parts bolted on without many complicated steps. Nissan realised this trend, and built a 180sx with a Silvia front end. Literally a SILvia 180.



Nissan kept production of the Sileighty low key owing to it's street racing roots and took the press by suprise when it was launched in mid 1994. It is said that just 400 Sileighty's were built.To separate the Sileighty from the botch jobs made at home Nissan added 24bhp through hotter cams and ecu tweeks. The suspension was modified, resulting in a very hard rear setup to snap oversteer to enable drifting through series of tight turns. The rarity value of a Drift car from the factory, and the Initial D series hightening awareness, ensure the SilEighty carries a premium selling for around the same price as an R32 Skyline GTR.Another variation on the Silvia platform was the Onevia, with the 180sx front end and Siliva rear.

By http://www.japmobiles.com

Mitsubishi Evolution IX

Step Drift : Rear-Wheel-Drive Mitsubishi Evolution IX

Turning Mitsubishi's all-wheel-drive icon, the Lancer Evolution IX, into a drifting machine for The Fast and the Furious: Tokyo Drift takes an act of perversion: The front wheels must be disconnected from the drivetrain to turn the Evo into a rear-wheel-driver. This is like asking Luciano Pavarotti to perform Rigoletto without any melodies or Eminem to rap without rhyming.But moviemaking sometimes demands that a car be robbed of its talents. So using a kit developed by Rhys Millen Racing (RMR), eight of the 10 brand-new Japanese-market Evo IXs donated to the Tokyo Drift production by Mitsubishi were converted to rear-drive drift cars by replacing the differential's output assembly with one that leaves out the splines to drive the front wheels and capping the output holes in the transfer case.



The stock transverse-mounted six-speed transmission is left alone, as is the rest of the drivetrain. Converting an Evo IX back to all-wheel drive should be just as straightforward.The Tokyo Drift Evo IXs were also lowered over Eibach springs and fitted with APR's wide-body kit and those oversize fenders were filled with 19-by-8.5-inch Ray's G-Games 99B wheels and 255/35R19 Toyo Proxes T1R tires. RMR also modified the steering knuckles for additional angle and upsized the brakes with Brembo discs and calipers. The turbocharged, 2.0-liter, four-cylinder engines were left essentially stock except for the addition of an RMR exhaust system. Power is up from the stock 286 horsepower at the crank to 289.5 hp at the rear wheels, measured on a chassis dynamometer.



With its Modern Image graphics, the Mitsubishi Evo IX looked as if carved from a block of freeze-dried adrenaline: a bundle of nervous energy with four doors and a big wing. Inside, The Fast and the Furious production team replaced the stock instrument cluster with AutoMeter gauges in a carbon-fiber plate and swapped out the steering wheel for a Sparco unit with a quick-disconnect hub. The Recaro seats aren't too radically shaped, but being in this little beast is like sitting on the end of a raw nerve.Lots of power and a mere 103.3-inch wheelbase mean this drift car wants to go sideways all the time — there may as well be windshield wipers on the door windows.



So, no surprise, a rear-wheel-drive Mitsubishi Evo is tougher to launch than an all-wheel-drive one, and this one could manage the trip to 60 mph in 6.6 seconds and complete the quarter in 14.5 seconds at 103.6 mph — a slug compared to the 4.9-second 0-60 time and 13.3 seconds at 103-mph performance of the last stock U.S.-market Evo IX Inside Line tested.For anything except drifting, the all-wheel-drive Lancer Evolution IX is a better machine. In fact, it's an all-time great

By http://www.edmunds.com

BMW E30 3 Series

Step Drift : BMW E30 3 Series

Make/ Model: BMW E30 3 Series (much of this info also applies to the larger E28 5 series pictured drifting below) 316, 318, 320, 323 and 325 available. Early cars were Carb, later cars EFI and had the "I" tag applied.Engine: Early cars were Carb, later cars EFI and had the "I" tag applied. 316(i) Engine is underpowered, 320(i) and 323(i) aren't the best either. The pick of the bunch would be the 318(i) and the 325(i), making 100hp and 170hp respectably. 318 has just enough poke to be fun, 325 has ample power and torque to play with and is great fun!Standard Differential: Clutch Type LSD offering only 20% lock, available on "Sport" Models, otherwise cars are fitted with open diffs
All models were available in 2 Door (not 5 series) 4 Door and 5 Door "Touring" versions. The Touring BMW's had slightly stiffer stock suspension. 318IS was available later on and offered a 16v engine with 140hp and LSD as standard. Various trim levels available.

Good
* Good to learn the basics in.
* Very cheap to buy and run.
* Chassis is excellent, very enjoyable and rewarding to drive.
* 325i requires little work to be a reasonably competative drift car.
* Abundance of spare parts and reasonably cheap to maintain and run.
* Touring is practical as well as effective.
* Lots of aftermarket parts available.
* Effective engine swaps available.

Bad:
* Steering rack has 4 turns lock-to-lock and this requires accurate and quick steering, can catch * you out easily (E36 rack swap can cure this).
* Drift oriented aftermarket parts are rare e.g Pillow Ball Uppers etc.
* Electrics are poor.
* Stock LSD is very poor, can be improved with more clutch plates or weld an Open Differential for cheaper results. Older cars getting rusty now.

By http://www.driftworks.com

Mazda RX7 FD

Step Drift : Mazda RX7 FD

Make/ Model: Mazda RX7 FDEngine:13b twin rotor, twin sequential turbo. BHP From 255 - 280 depending on model.Standard Differential:Torsen.

Good:
* Revvy.
* Responsive.
* Lots of adjustability suspension wise (toe, camber, caster etc can all have a much better adjustable range to play with than most other potential drift cars).
* Relatively simple to tune, as long as the ECU is changed to something mapable.
* 350BHP is relatively easy without changing turbos or opening the engine but would need everything else in place to support it (IC, map, fuel system etc)

Bad:
* With trim you can only transport 2 wheels in the vehicle. Slightly more when stripped, but 4 would still be a push when retaining both front seats.
* Poor handbrake.
* Very Bad MPG, especially when tuned for more power.
* Stock sequential twin turbos have a messy transition, Non sequential rebuild or single turbo is prefered.
* Lack of steering angle, but aftermarket parts available to combat this.

By http://www.driftworks.com

Toyota AE86 Corolla

Step Drift : Toyota AE86 Corolla GT Coupe

Make/ Model: Toyota AE86 Corolla GT Coupe (UK-Fixed Lights), Sprinter Trueno (Japanese-Pop-up Lights), Corolla Levin (Japanese-Fixed Lights).Engine: All AE86's came with the 4AGEU 1.6 litre Twin Cam 16v Engine. It used the 4AC 8v 3 Rib Block mated to the 16v Head. The AE92 used a 7 Rib Block and is a popular swap. Standard Differential: 1.5 Way Clutch Type LSD

The Japanese versions came in GT, GTV and GT-Apex trim levels. All have pros and cons for drifting but all are suitable. GT has lowest spec but rear drum brakes which makes the handbrake more effective. GTV is the more base/performance oriented model with Manual Steering (3.5 Turns Lock-to-lock) and manual windows and GT-Apex is the highest spec with power steering (3 Turns Lock-to-lock), electric windows and air-con as standard. They came in 2 and 3 door versions of both models. The UK GT Coupe was 3 Door only, and is basically a "GTV" in terms of trim and spec (Manual steering etc). Classic drift car as featured in Initial-D.





Good:
* Good to learn the basics in.
* Good to work on, easy on tires and very solid and reliable.
* The stock LSD (when working) is very good.
* Huge aftermarket support available in Japan.
* Awesome to drive and a serious amount of fun due to the light wieght and revvy engine.
* Very addictive and intoxicating to own!

Bad:
* Hard to get good in.
* Very low power levels.
* Many other cars flatter the driver, this car highlights your every flaw.
* Some cars are nearing 22 years old, and hence suspension, engines and chassis can be weak.
* Prone to rusting.
* Drive shafts can be problematic.

By http://www.driftworks.com

Nissan 200sx S14

Make/ Model:Nissan 200sx S14 - model shown is the facelifted S14a (Kouki in Japan, the earlier S14 is Zenki) called 240SX in the USA although the US model has a 2.4L normally aspirated truck engineEngine: SR20DET 2litre Turbocharged 200bhpStandard Differential: Viscous LSD on all models.





Good:
* Easily tuneable to 270bhp with simple breathing mods.
* Engine is very b when serviced well, it is capable of 400bhp with just bolt on mods and good mapping.
* A very predictable car to learn in.
* Loads of drift specific parts available off the shelf.

Bad:
* Standard suspension is very soft.
* The Viscous LSD is not great, and higher mileage units can become tired and behave like an open diff.
* Standard seats are unsupportive and leather is slidey.

By http://www.driftworks.com

Nissan 200sx S13

Step Drift : Nissan 200sx S13

A drift car is RWD!
You can ass-drag a FWD car and you can power understeer a 4WD car, but it's not true drifting.
Here are some examples and details on some of the most popular choices of drift car. Although there are many other suitable cars for drifting, these seem to be the most suitable in terms of value for money, standard equipment and availability of tuning parts, and spares.
Make/ Model: Nissan 200sx S13 (180sx in Japan)Engine: CA18DET 1.8litre Turbocharged 180bhpStandard Differential: Open diff or Viscous LSD depending on age and model.





Good:
* Cheap to buy.
* A very predictable car to learn in.
* Loads of drift specific parts available off the shelf.

Bad:
* Getting old now with even the newest examples being well over the 10 year mark.
* CA18DET engine is prone to big end problems in later life, especially if over-revved.
* Standard suspension is very soft.
* The Viscous LSD is not great, and higher mileage units can become tired and behave like an open diff.

By http://www.driftworks.com

What is Drifting?

Step Drift : What is Drifting?

Drifting is a motorsport discipline that originates from Japan and is rapidly growing in popularity in Europe.
It is essentially the art of sliding a car as sideways as possible for as long as possible round a conventional race circuit, linking slides and turns into one fluid, controlled movement.
It's a unique form of motorsport in that competitions are comprised of individual runs judged on style, like in freestyle motocross or, dare I say, Ice-skating rather than the more conventional tradition of many cars on track at once, racing each other.

Although it might look like an extreme form of driving, the reality is that speeds are relatively low compared to other motorsports and when mishaps do happen, its generally just a simple spin to a halt, before carrying on to the next turn.
Drifting has been recognised in Japan for the last 30 years, but has become hugely popular there in the last 15 years and is now a fully established national sport. America is following suit and had it's first pro drift competition in mid 2003. Japanese drivers and their cars were shipped over to compete in front of a capacity crowd. The sport is currently in its infancy in Europe, but is very quickly gaining recognition and popularity both as an easily accessible amateur motorsport and a very popular spectator attraction.

In Europe at the moment, entry fees for events are relatively small and anyone with a rear wheel drive road car can take part in the entry level competitions. All that's needed is a helmet, the ability to learn and think fast and a serious passion for driving. Oh yes, and a good supply of spare tyres.

Drifting Techniques

Step Drift : Drifting Techniques

Kansei Drift- this is performed at race speeds, when entering a high speed corner a driver lifts his foot off the throttle to induce a mild over steer and then balances the drift through steering and throttle motions. Note that the car that is being used for this style of drift should be a neutral balanced car therefore the over steer will induce itself. If the car plows through any turn this technique will not work.Braking drift- this is performed by trail braking into a corner, then loss of grip is obtained and then balance through steering and throttle motions. Note that this is mainly for medium to low speed corners. Faint Drift- this is performed by rocking the car towards the outside of a turn and then using the rebound of grip to throw the car into the normal cornering direction. Note that this is heavy rally racing technique used to change vehicle attitudes during cornering, mainly tight mountain corners.Clutch Kick- this is performed by depressing the clutch pedal on approach or during a mild drift, then pop the clutch to give a sudden jolt through the driveline to upset rear traction.Shift Lock- this is performed by letting the revs drop on downshift into a corner and then releasing the clutch to put stress on the driveline to slow the rear tires inducing over steer. This is like pulling the E-brake through a turn - note that this should be performed in the wet to minimize damage to the driveline, etc.E-Brake Drift- this technique is very basic, pull the E-Brake or (side brake) to induce rear traction loss and balance drift through steering and throttle play. Note that this can also be used to correct errors or fine tune drift angles.Dirt Drop Drift- this is performed by dropping the rear tires off the road into the dirt to maintain or gain drift angle without losing power or speed and to set up for the next turn. Note that this technique is very useful for low horsepower cars.Jump Drift- in this technique the rear tire on the inside of a turn or apex is bounced over a curb to lose traction resulting in oversteer. Long Slide Drift- this is done by pulling the E-brake through a strait to start a high angel drift and to hold this to set up for the turn ahead. Note that this can only be done at high speed.Swaying Drift- this is a slow side-to-side faint like drift where the rear end sways back and forth down a strait. FF Drift- or front wheel drive drift. The E-brake as well as steering and braking techniques must be used to balance the car through a corner. Note that the E-brake is the main technique used to balance the drift.Power Over- this performed when entering a corner and using full throttle to produce heavy oversteer (tail slide) through the turn. Note that you need horsepower to make this happen.

By AE86 Drift

AE86 Story

Step Drift : AE86 Story

OK this Sprinter mightn't kick like a turbo car, have stand-out paint or a mega sound system, but what it does have is good. Bloody good. Matter of fact, it's a mechanical marvel and an absolute credit to its owner builder, Steve Vasic.
Now that you'd know it at first, second or even third glance. No. The Sprinter is exceptionally understated regardless of its imported Japanese Corolla GT front, neat black TSW rims and raspy exhaust note.
There's nothing initially inspiring about sitting in the imported Sprinter passenger seat either - except perhaps for the slightly bumpy ride. But this changes once Steve breathes on the loud pedal. Watching the tacho reveals steady progress up to around 4000 rpm before the momentum increases and the engine takes on a very different complexion in both feel and sound.
Steve grabs for the shifter as the tacho rises above 7500 rpm, pulls second and we continue our leap forward at a pace not expected of a normally boring Sprinter. And even though it's a quick car, straight line grunt was never meant to be its forte. No, built it to club race but now believes the finished product is too good to subject to the track.
Mind you, Steve recently ran the car over Calder Park's quarter mile. On the day he pushed the Sprinter to just one pass, an abysmal launch giving a 15.22 at 89 mph.So what is it that makes the car so quick, so nimble and so mechanically marvellous? Man, you're not going to believe what you're about to read.
Steve's no spring chicken, in fact he's knocking on the door of the big four zero but hey, here's a guy who's been-there-and-done-that with all things automotive. He's pretty much stuck with Toyota and Subaru product, having performed some really interesting conversions along the way. Trick stuff like dropping a 1988 model Subaru Touring wagon over a complete - that's the works - RS Liberty 4WD turbo drive line! Yeah, we know that it's supposed to be an impossible swap - but Steve has done it...



Over four Years ago (and prior to it becoming popular) he swapped a Holden EFI V8 into a Landcruiser, even ensuring the 'check engine' light was operational. Then there's been at least three '74 Corollas running a 2TG hybrid or 3TG turbo engines and, well, the list goes on an on.
There's been a couple of Sprinter too, with this one making its entrance three years ago, soon after Steve received a telephone call from EKW's Andrew Perrera about a front damaged 1983 Sprinter. "I'd been thinking about another Sprinter for a while, so I went and had a look to find it was a one owner and meticulously cared for", Steve said.
A rebuild was in order simply because the car needed a new front anyway, so Steve looked at what was required to transform it into a competitive club level road and race car. A 1G-G twin turbo 2.0-litre six was first cab off the rank, however it proved to be quite heavy and its size meant that the car would be in the over two litre class. "I wanted to stick with a Toyota engine, and about the only high-tech two litre in the range was the second generation MR2 3S-GE. I knew that by virtue of it being a transverse engine it'd make for a difficult conversion, but I like a challenge".
And what a challenge it was! Mods required to make 118kW (158bhp) engine work in harmony with the Sprinter were many - too many to mention here. For a start, the normally slant-mounted engine had to sit upright. This meant that Steve had to drill three holes (one front and two rear) in the cylinder head for oil delivery via high pressure fittings. External lines lead to just above the sump line in the block casting, allowing the oil to run back into the sump.
The inlet manifold also had to be radically altered due to the original transverse configuration. It starts with 35mm of the original manifold (match ported) to which 15mm sections of an 18RG twin Solex manifold were welded, with the internals incorporating trumpet style inners. Flange mounted to the already radical manifolds is an owner-made allow plenum designed to accept the factory throttle body. Also, in the event that Steve decides to revert to a complete MoTeC injection package (neatly stored in the home shed), he has simply to remove the fabricated manifold and bolt on 45mm MoTeCthrottle bodies.



Next the water inlet pipe had to be cut and shut and turned in the opposite direction to run along the underside of the inlet manifold to the front of the engine. A similar situation was faced with the dizzy, however the fix wasn't so simple. Steve relocated the rotor button and cap to the front of the engine and sealed the rear dizzy. An adaptor plate turns the exhaust camshaft into a new dizzy drive!
Necessary were custom made 4-2-1 extractors meeting in a 2.25-inch pipe. This runs to a high-flow cat, into a small resonator and then finally through a stainless Genie muffler. The extractors aid power output, as does a fully sealed cold air intake mounted fore of a Subaru RX turbo air box and drawing air from behind the grille.
Engine accommodation was also a significant exercise with Steve placing and AE82 Corolla twin cam air conditioning fan in front of the stock radiator on a fabricated bracket, employing Corona 2S engine mounts sitting on a modified cross-member and placing a 4A-GE Sprinter washer bottle on the left hand inner guard - not on the stock right hand side. The radiator overflow has also been relocated to a possy between the grille and radiator.
Choosing the trans type was made easier thanks to Steve discovering a reasonably priced 4.3 LSD Sprinter rear end, which meant that a tall first and second geared W58 Supra five-speed was just perfect. It sits in front of a fabricated light-weight flywheel and slightly second hand 1G-G clutch, is backed with a modified 2-piece tailshaft and sits on a spaced imported Corollo auto crossmember.



Suspension bump and rebound have been attended to through the addition of adjustable Koni shocks on the rear with 1.5-inch lowered King springs. The front sits on custom shortened adjustable spring height Lesle coil-overs and there's a bunch of Nolathane bushes. Braking is more than adequate thanks to current model Cressida rotors (owner cross-drilled and grooved and new RX-7 Series 4 alloy calipers. Rolling stock consists of TSW Racing rims and Pirelli rubber.
Turning to the interior about the only changes are a Momo steeting wheel, electric mirrors and retrimmed imported Sprinter bucket seats. Outside it's a similar story except of course for the complete Corolla GT front sheet metal, pop-up headlights and grille. Finishing off the look is a rear spoiler, Calibra roof-mount aerial and two-tone Glasurit paint job.
Unseen modifications are also in force, most small yet significant. One is the Corolla GT fuel tank and in-tank pump, oversize line runs from front to back, and a spare tire that has been displaced in favour of 15 inch (needed to accomodate the larger brakes) Nissan 300ZX 'space saver'.
An incredible amount of work you'd have to say, all achieved in an amazingly short five months! Yep, Steve performed almost everything himself including parts sourcing and most fabrication. What's more the car is fully read legal. It's great lesson in high quality engineering.

AE86 Drift

How to Drift 2

How to Drift

With the popularity of the movie, Fast and the Furious – Tokyo Drift, a lot of car enthusiasts are amazed with the drifting techniques showed in the film. Drifting is a type of technique used popularly in motor sports.

To illustrate a drift, the rear slip angles are basically higher than the front ones. The front wheels points to an opposite direction when doing a turn. For example, if a car is turning right, the wheel should point to the left. Drifting is a technique that is manipulated by the driver himself.
If you are ready for some adrenaline rush, here are a few tips on how to drift:

1. Make a checklistThe first things that you need to do when going for a drift is an extra powerful car. It should have the following minimum requirements:• Rear wheel drive• 400hp minimum horsepower
• Strong and good working tires
• Powerful suspension

2. Find a suitable carIf you wanted to go for a rear wheel drive drift, then look for a car with manual transmission and of course, a rear wheel drive. Remember that no two cars are alike and they each have different responses so it is best that you use a car that you are already familiar with.

3. Spotting a good locationLook for an open area. One good place is an empty and spacious parking lot, where there are no pedestrians or other cars that would get in your way. If you are a beginner, choose a location with gravel because gravel proves to be a good platform for your tires.
4. AccelerationThe key to drifting is good acceleration. To get you started, accelerate and shift to your 2nd gear. This would allow for several speed varieties. It could also harness your car engine’s torque but would not distress its mechanism.

5. RevOnce you get accelerated and heated up, push the clutch and rev.

6. Preparing for the driftWhile the car’s engine is revving, give your steering wheel a good yank. Move it slightly to the right and left. This would make your rear end loosen up its grip and traction.

7. Get startedThere are three things that you need to do to lose the rear wheel traction. Simultaneously do the following. First, steer your wheel close to half of its race. Second release your clutch. Lastly, pull the handbrake. This would cause your car to slide away.

8. Drift awayAfter doing step no.7, steer your car right away in the direction of the slide. And that’s it, you are drifting!

By http://www.driftworks.com

How to Drift a Car

stepdrift : How to Drift a Car

Drifting with Rear Wheel Drive Manual

1. Find a car with both rear-wheel-drive and a manual transmission.


2. Head to an open area (i.e. an empty parking lot) safely free of pedestrians and motorists.


3. Accelerate and shift to second gear, which allows the widest variance of speed and is best for harnessing the engine's torque without overly stressing the mechanicals.


4. Push in the clutch to let the engine rev.


5. With the engine revving, flick the steering wheel to the outside of the turn and steer strongly inside toward the turn.


6. Simultaneously release the clutch. If you are uncomfortable with this method of sliding, try pulling the hand brake to further reduce traction(never pull brake while accelerating). While that won't kill your car initially, it is a bad habit to get into. Don't start now.)


7. Immediately steer the car in the direction of the slide. You're drifting!
   

Drifting with Rear Wheel Drive Auto

1. Find a large, open area.


2. Accelerate to a speed of 20-30(depending on lot size and room)


3. Turn the wheel hard and floor it. You should feel the rear end slide around if this is done correctly. Repeat until comfortable with sliding.


4. Set up a cone in the middle of the lot. Drive up on the cone and turn around the cone. when you begin your turn accelerate hard to get the rear end loose.


5. Counter steer to control where your car will go after turn.(opposite lock)


6. Increase speed until comfortable


7. Note that if your vehicle of choice doesn't have enough power read the FWD directions but remember to release hand brake before accelerating.

Drifting with Front Wheel Drive

1. Go to a large, open area.


2. Accelerate then pull the handbrake or use the parking brake, riding it out the first time or two to get over your initial fear.


3. Set up a cone in the middle of the lot.


4. Drive up to it at speed (between 20 and 30 is desired).


5. Hit the brake and turn toward the cone. Immediately after you feel the back end come around, turn to the opposite direction. This is known as opposite lock.


6. Repeat the opposite lock at that speed until you can control your car well. Practice this for at least several weeks regularly until it becomes second nature. (Don't do this on roadways. It is dangerous to others and can get you fined.)


7. Slowly increase speed until you are proficient in a speed you are comfortable with. Get to know that speed--you should never drift above that speed unless you are practicing.


8. Upgrade. At the same initial speed, flick the steering wheel opposite of the turn and swing it all the way into toward the CONE (not turn, you aren't ready at this stage). As before, when you feel the rear end come around, go to opposite lock. It takes time and practice to successfully use the Scandinavian flick, especially on under powered cars.

Tips

• No two cars react identically; try to "feel" yours to familiarize yourself with its reactions.


• All wheel drive vehicles can be drifted, but it requires a specific, rather more difficult technique. Keep in mind that there are no rules that can be applied to AWDs because every car is different and more importantly, every AWD system is different. Read about your car, read real articles on it and go talk to people. If they tell you that you must drive rear wheel drive, find someone else.


• In a rear wheel drive vehicle, you don't need to pull the brake as you improve, but it is often necessary when first learning.


• When looking for an area to learn and practice, gravel is preferable because it is easier on your tires.


• This is only a starting point. To do more, you need driving school to teach more than just basic maneuvers and you need driving theory.

Things You'll Need

A car with

• wheels


• some horsepower(more the easier)


• tires(slick tires on the rear is good for sliding, but it is bad for street driving)


• suspension(if you fear body role, tight set up. Try reading up on suspension because you can collapse your rear suspension if you aren't careful or if you are unlucky)
  
• A track race


• a good engine
  
  
  Warnings
  


• Never drift on the road. It is illegal. It might seem fun, but it's really not worth the risk.


• Don't go faster than you can handle. Recovering from a spin takes skill and experience.


• Because severe or uneven wear is a driving hazard, be sure enough tread remains on the tires when finished drifting.


• Be extra careful when drifting in an SUV or pickup. They're more likely to flip.

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